Showing posts with label bluffing. Show all posts
Showing posts with label bluffing. Show all posts

The Simple Trick to Beat People Who Bluff Too Much

The Simple Trick to Beat People Who Bluff Too Much


This article was written by blackrain79.com contributor Fran Ferlan.

One thing that virtually all winning poker players have in common is the fact that they’re playing an aggressive style of poker.

Playing aggressively allows you to win “more than your fair share”, but what do you do when your opponents are playing aggressively against you?

Playing against players who bluff a lot can be frustrating, but you can use your opponent’s aggression against them if you employ the right strategy.

In this article, we’ll go over simple strategies you can use to absolutely crush players who bluff a lot.

Let’s get right into it.

1. Call Them Down With a Wider Range


Calling too much is one of the most common amateur poker mistakes at the lower stakes.

That’s because when players make big bets or raises, especially on big money streets (i.e. the turn or the river), they usually have something to show for it.

In other words, most low stakes players actually underbluff, so calling them down too widely is a big mistake.

That’s not the case when you’re playing against players who bluff a lot, though.

When playing against these players, you don’t have to wait around for a monster hand  like A♥️A♦️ to stack them.

It’s enough to have a decent hand that’s comfortably ahead of their range.

To do this successfully, first you need to be aware how wide their range is to begin with.

There are a few factors that determine how wide your opponent’s range is at a given spot.

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A) How loose they are overall


The more hands your opponent plays preflop, the more likely they are to have a lot of air in their range.

In no-limit hold’em, most hands miss most flops, so the more hands someone plays, the more often they’re going to miss the flop completely.

If you’re playing poker online and you’re using a HUD (heads-up display), you can check your opponent’s VPIP stat.

VPIP stands for “voluntarily put money in pot”, and it simply refers to the percentage of hands a player chooses to play preflop.

If you want to use stats to give yourself more information about your opponent’s playstyle, my HUD choice as a 10+ year pro is PokerTracker.

If you’re playing poker live, you obviously can’t rely on HUD stats, so you’re going to have to observe your opponents to figure out how many hands they play preflop.

Protip: always look at your opponent’s showdown hands when they get to showdown.

If you find your opponents often go to showdown with weird, nonsensical hands, chances are they’re playing too many hands for their own good.

B) Your opponent’s table position


As a general rule, the closer your opponent is to the dealer button, the wider their range and vice versa.

Being close to the button or on the button allows you to play in position post flop, which is a huge advantage.

Due to the positional advantage, you can play a lot more hands profitably.

In other words, you can get away with playing weaker ranges overall.

Of course, this only applies if your opponents actually pay attention to their table position and adjust their game accordingly.

But usually, even the recreational players are at least vaguely aware they shouldn’t be playing too many hands in early table positions.

For example, if a player open-raises under the gun (the first seat to act), you should probably give them a lot more credit than if they open-raise from the cutoff and the button (i.e. late table positions).

C) Your opponent’s overall aggression level

In no-limit hold’em, it’s actually very rare to make a very strong hand combination.

So if you see a player betting and raising incessantly, it’s a good indicator they are probably bluffing way too much.

If you’re using a HUD, you can check your opponent’s overall aggression factor (AF) to figure out how likely they are to bluff.

The AF of 1 indicates an extremely passive player, while the AF of 5 indicates an extremely aggressive player (aka a maniac).

Check out my article for the 15 best HUD stats you should include in your display.

For live poker players, you simply have to use your observational skills to determine your opponent’s aggression level.

But again, overly aggressive players are usually fairly easy to spot, so identifying them shouldn’t be too much of a problem.

Playing against them, on the other hand, can be challenging to say the least.

So in the rest of the article, we’ll take a closer look at some specific strategies to use your opponent’s aggression against them.

Also, make sure to check out my recent video on how to easily catch your opponents bluffing every time.


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2. Resteal Against Blind Stealing Atempts


We’ll start with some preflop adjustments you can make in your game, then we’ll work on some common post flop spots to deal with frequent aggression.

First we’ll discuss the very common blind stealing scenario.

To blind steal means to open-raise from the late table positions (the cutoff, the button, and the small blind) with the intention of getting the blinds to fold and taking down the pot preflop.

To clarify, blind stealing can only happen when you’re the first player to enter the pot in these late table positions.

If another player open-raises or open-limps in front of you, you can’t blind steal anymore.

Blind stealing can be a very profitable strategy, and the players who bluff a lot are likely to engage in rampant blind stealing if given the chance.

One advantage of blind stealing is that you don’t need to have a particularly strong hand to do it successfully.

In fact, your own hand strength is often irrelevant.

What matters more is the playing tendencies of players in the blinds.

For example, if your opponents overfold to blind stealing attempts, you can blind steal with basically any 2 cards.

Check out my ultimate blind stealing cheat sheet to learn how to pick up easy money preflop.

This strategy can be extremely profitable, but it can be frustrating when you’re on the receiving end of blind stealing attempts.

There are 2 ways to counteract incessant blind stealing. You can either:

a) defend your blinds by calling with a wider range

b) 3-bet resteal (i.e. re-raise).

In theory, you should defend your blinds by flat calling with a relatively wide range, but this can be quite tricky against overly aggressive players who bluff a lot.

That’s because you will play the rest of the hand out of position without the initiative and the range advantage.

If you miss the flop, it’s going to be very hard to call your opponent down when they keep betting on multiple streets.

One of the key adjustments to make against overly aggressive players is to simply try to play more pots in position against them.

So defending a wide range in the blinds means you’re going to be fighting an uphill battle.

A much better alternative is to 3-bet resteal.

I show you exactly what hands to do this with in my second book, Modern Small Stakes.

When you 3-bet against blind stealing attempts, you’re attacking very wide and weak ranges.

And most hands in that range simply can’t stand the pressure of a 3-bet.

This means your opponent will often just give up the hand right then and there.

Even if they call you, you’ll be in a much better position post flop, because now you will be the preflop aggressor.

This gives you the opportunity to make a c-bet on the flop and put pressure on your opponent, instead of the other way around.

Example Hand #1

Cash Game, Effective Stack Size: 100 BB

You are dealt A2 in the SB (small blind). A loose and aggressive (LAG) opponent open-raises to 2.5 BB from the BU (button). 

You: ???

You should 3-bet to 10 BB.

This is a textbook spot to attempt a light 3-bet, as you’re attacking a very wide and weak range from the open-raiser.

By 3-betting this hand, you can sometimes make them fold their stronger Ax hands, which is obviously great for you.

Even if you get called, you still have a playable hand that can connect with the flop in more than one way.

This means you can keep applying the pressure post flop with a c-bet, or potentially hit a strong combination like a straight or a flush and take down a huge pot.


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3. Float the Flop More Often


Another simple adjustment you can make against overly aggressive players is to float the flop with a wider range.

To float the flop means to call on the flop (preferably in position), and try to take down the pot on future streets, usually with a bluff of your own.

In most low stakes games, players are likely to c-bet the flop with a wide range, but they often give up on future streets if you call them down.

In other words, a lot of players tend to be “turn honest”, meaning they aren’t likely to fire another shell on the turn unless they happen to have a very strong hand.

If you’re using a HUD, you should look for a big gap between their flop c-betting and turn c-betting frequencies.

A big gap between the two (20% or more) usually indicates a turn honest player.

It’s worth noting that overly aggressive players will have more opportunities for a turn c-bet, because they c-bet the flop a lot in the first place.

Players who don’t c-bet the flop as often will naturally have less turn c-betting opportunities, so you need a bigger sample size to accurately assess their turn c-betting frequency.

Either way, turn c-betting frequency does require a big sample size to be accurate.

As a general rule, you would need a sample size of at least 1000 hands for the turn c-betting frequency to be accurate.

More is always better, of course.

But again, if a player c-bets the flop a lot, they will have more opportunities to c-bet the turn and vice versa.

If you’re playing live poker, you simply need to observe how often a player c-bets the flop and turn, respectively.

This may take some time, since you won’t be playing as many hands in live poker, so you need to rely on other sources of information.

So how do you float the flop successfully?

You simply call down the flop c-bets with a wider range than usual.

This may be uncomfortable at first, so it’s best to float the flop with hands that have decent equity when you continue playing the hand.

You don’t want to float the flop with hands that have very little chance of improving on future streets.

Here are some hands you can consider floating the flop with:

a) overcards

If you have one or two overcards, sometimes you can improve to a top pair on the turn or river, which can often give you the best hand against overly aggressive players.

For example, if you have KJ and the flop is 952 

In this spot, you have 6 outs to improve to a top pair, which can often be good enough to call against players who have a lot of air in their range.

b) backdoor draws

A backdoor draw means you need both turn and river cards to complete your hand.

Calling on the flop with a backdoor draw is usually not profitable, as the chances of actually completing your draw are quite slim.

However, sometimes it can be a good idea, as you have more than one way to win the hand on future streets.

On the rare occasions you do hit your outs, you stand to gain quite a substantial pot, especially if you can rely on your opponent to build up the pot for you.

c) inside straight draws

An inside straight draw is a relatively weak draw that only completes 17% of the time.

However, it can be profitable to chase these draws if you have decent implied odds, which is often going to be the case against overly aggressive opponents.

d) pocket pairs

If you don’t hit a set on the flop, you can still consider calling on the flop and hopefully bink a set on the turn.

This is not going to happen often, as you only have 2 outs, but if you do, the implied odds are likely to be through the roof.

That’s because your hand strength is likely to be well-concealed, so you can catch your opponent off-guard and potentially stack them.

These are all just general examples, of course.

The point is that you want to float the flop with hands that are not totally hopeless to begin with.

The objective of floating is usually not to get lucky and improve to a monster hand.

Rather, it is about trying to take down the pot with a well-timed bluff if your opponent seems ready to give up the hand.

In this regard, your hand strength (or lack thereof) is totally irrelevant.

What matters more is your opponent’s playing tendencies.

For example, if your opponent almost always c-bets the flop, but often gives up on the turn, you can float them with just about any two cards.

Then, when they check to you on the turn, you simply fire a half-pot bet and they’ll usually just fold then and there.

However, sometimes they will also fire another barrel on the turn, in which case you need to be prepared for a double float.

And if they just check on the river, it usually means they’ve exhausted their aggressive arsenal.

So when they check to you on the river, again, you just fire off a bet of your own and take down the pot.

This is why it’s advised to float (or double float) with hands that have at least some chance of improving.

That way, you can win the pot in two ways: you can either make your opponent fold with a bluff of your own, or you can sometimes slide into a monster hand, which is obviously the best case scenario.

Example Hand #2


You are dealt 87 and the flop is K54

The pot is 10 BB and your opponent bets 5 BB. 

You: ???

You should call.

Even though you’re not getting sufficient pot odds with an inside straight draw, you can still call in this spot.

If your opponent is likely to keep barreling on future streets, the implied odds will make calling justifiable.

And if your opponent just checks on the turn, you can just take a stab with a half pot bet, regardless of whether or not you’ve hit one of your outs.

Chances are, they’re going to give up the hand right there and then.

If your opponent bets again on the turn, you can go for a double float, or even raise them if you pick up some equity (for example, you turn a flush draw).

In today’s games, it takes more than waiting around for a premium hand to be a profitable long term winner.

You also need to look for edges in less than ideal circumstances. This means knowing how to play out of position against skilled opponents who won’t just roll over.

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4. Switch Seats


It’s worth noting that most of these strategies work best if you’re able to play in position against your opponents.

Playing in position is just about the biggest advantage you can have in the hand.

This is true when you’re playing against recreational and regular players alike.

However, you won’t always have the luxury of playing in position against your opponents.

If an overly aggressive opponent is seated to your left, this means they will have the positional advantage over you most of the time.

If that’s the case, you should be aware that you’re going to be fighting an uphill battle.

It’s actually very hard to play profitably out of position against aggressive players.

That’s because they can use the positional advantage to apply pressure on you, both preflop and post flop.

In practice, this means they can keep barreling into you over multiple post flop streets.

If you’re the preflop aggressor, then they can use the positional advantage to float or double float you instead of the other way around.

There are certain ways you can offset your positional disadvantage, like check-raising or slowplaying with your monster hands.

A check-raise is a very powerful move that can only be done out of position, and it’s a great way to take the initiative away from your opponent, especially if they happen to bluff a lot.

But for the most part, playing out of position will automatically put you at a disadvantage, so it’s best to avoid these spots altogether.

Of course, if you get dealt a decent hand, sometimes you just have to play it out of position and hope for the best.

But if you’re dealt some sort of a marginal hand, it’s usually better to err on the side of caution and simply fold it preflop if you expect to face a lot of aggression post flop.

If you have a very aggressive player on your direct left, the best adjustment you can make is to simply tighten up your preflop ranges.

This way, it will be easier to deal with their incessant aggression, and you will have a better fighting chance post flop against them.

But at the end of the day, these strategies can only get you so far.

Sometimes the only winning move is not to play at all.

If you’re playing poker online and you have a very aggressive player on your left, sometimes the best thing you can do is to simply switch seats, or even find a new table.

Provided your online poker site actually allows for seat selection and table selection, of course.

Ideally, you want to have very passive players sitting on your direct left.

This way, you can eliminate the annoyance of constantly facing aggressive 3-bets every time you open-raise the hand.

Also, having a very passive player on your left will allow you to blind steal a lot more often.

Not only will they usually overfold to blind stealing attempts, but they also won’t adjust enough when you attempt to blind steal from the cutoff.

Since they won’t play as many hands as they should from the button, this means you can expand your open-raising range from the cutoff and play more hands in position post flop.

When you’re playing against overly aggressive opponents, it’s the exact opposite.

They will often punish your late position open-raises by 3-betting incessantly, and they may often flat call you from the button or the cutoff, thus denying you your positional advantage.

For these reasons, it’s best to either tighten up your open-raising ranges, or better yet, simply try to find a more profitable table.

Of course, if you’re playing tournaments or if you’re playing live poker, you won’t have the luxury of switching seats.

In that case, you can use other strategies outlined in this article to give yourself a fighting chance.

Bottom line: playing against overly aggressive opponents can be frustrating, but you can still beat them if you use the power of position to your advantage.

If you’re playing out of position, on the other hand, you’ll be fighting an uphill battle, so it’s best to avoid these spots altogether if possible.

If you're still struggling with playing against aggressive players out of position, check out The Microstakes Playbook.


5. Bluff Catch With Hands With Showdown Value


Now, let’s address the titular question on how to beat players who bluff a lot.

If you think about it, this question basically answers itself.

If somebody bluffs a lot, you simply bluff catch wider against them.

As the name suggests, to bluff catch means to call your opponent down when you think they have a lot of air in their range.

Waiting around for the nuts and trying to trap these players is not the most effective strategy.

That’s because strong value hands really don’t come around all that often in no-limit hold’em.

So instead of waiting around for the nuts, a more effective strategy is to call them down with hands that have enough showdown value.

A hand with showdown value is the one that’s not strong enough to value bet with, but can often win at showdown.

For example, let’s say you are dealt pocket Tens and you see the following board runout:

K9284

In a spot like this, you can't bet for value, because it’s unlikely you will get called by a lot of weaker hands.

Unless you happen to be playing against a major calling station, but that’s an entirely different story.

But just because you can’t bet for value, it doesn’t mean you won’t still win the hand from time to time.

Apart from the rare set and some Kx hands, there really isn’t a lot of hands that actually beat you here.

So if you’re playing against a player who happens to bluff a lot, this is a great spot to bluff catch against them.

If your opponent keeps betting here, they’re usually trying to represent some sort of a Kx hand.

But there’s all kinds of bluffs in their range you’re comfortably ahead of.

There are some busted straight draws like QJ, JT, QT, as well as a number of busted flush draws.

There’s also very few 2 pair hands that make sense here, apart from maybe K9 or 98.

This is just an example, of course. 

Your opponent’s exact range will depend on a number of different factors, namely their table position, the previous action, as well as their overall playing tendencies.

But when it comes to bluff catching, it’s worth remembering that you will usually encounter a fairly awkward spot where you simply have to trust your judgement.

You always have to consider your opponent’s overall range, not just the hands that beat you.

Of course, sometimes you will call your opponent down and they will show you Ace-King or a set.

This is undoubtedly frustrating, but it’s not a disaster by any means.

If nothing else, you will show your opponent that you’re actually willing to call them down wider, so they will have to think twice about trying to bluff you the next time around.


6. Trap Them With Monster Hands


One final strategy you can employ against overly aggressive players requires a bit of patience, but can be very profitable if you do it the right way.

And this strategy involves slowplaying your strong hands.

To slowplay means to play your hand passively (i.e. check and call) instead of betting and raising in order to conceal your hand strength.

Slowplaying is only effective if you can rely on your opponent to build up the pot for you.

That’s why it’s not recommended to slowplay your strong hands if you’re up against most recreational players who tend to play too passively themselves.

Most recreational players aren’t likely to bluff a lot, and they usually tend to overcall instead.

To overcall means to call more often than would be considered “optimal”. In other words, it means calling so much that it leaves you vulnerable to getting exploited.

Against these passive players, your best bet is to play your hand straightforwardly.

This means betting and raising with your strong hands to take advantage of their overcalling tendencies.

But against aggressive players who bluff a lot, slowplaying can be very effective.

When you slowplay, it’s going to incentivize them to bluff you with a wider range, so you can just call them down and let them donate their stack to you.

If you raise them at some point in the hand, this will let them know that you have a strong hand, so they will just fold all of their air.

Raising with your monster hands may be tempting, since you want to get as much money in the middle as possible.

This is why it’s important to remain patient, and trust in your judgment that they will keep barreling if you give them the opportunity to do so.

It’s also worth noting that you don’t have to wait around for the stone cold nuts to employ this strategy.

If you have a decent hand with plenty of showdown value, you can employ the bluff catching strategy.

But it’s obviously easier to slowplay with hands that have a ton of equity against your opponent’s range.

This way, you don’t have to guess whether or not your hand is actually ahead.

One drawback of this strategy is that very strong value hands don’t come around all that often in no-limit hold’em.

This is why it’s crucial to have other weapons in your repertoire against overly aggressive players.

This includes floating them with a wider range, bluff catching with hands with showdown value, or even fighting back by raising against a lot of air-heavy ranges.


The Simple Trick to Beat People Who Bluff Too Much - Summary


Playing against overly aggressive players can be frustrating, but you don’t need to learn a lot of advanced poker strategy to play against them effectively.

All you have to do is make a few simple adjustments to your game, and use your opponent’s aggression against them.

To sum up, here’s how you can beat players who bluff too much.

1. Call them down with a wider range

Calling too much is usually a losing strategy, but it can be quite effective against players who bluff a lot.

Against these players, simply call them down with a wider range (preferably in position), and they will have to think twice about bluffing you with impunity.

2. 3-bet resteal against stealing attempts

Players who bluff a lot will usually try to blind steal with quite a wide range.

This means you can defend your blinds with a wider range, or better yet, go for a 3-bet resteal to keep them in check.

3. Float the flop

To float the flop means to call on the flop with a wider range with the intention of taking down the pot at some point later in the hand (usually with a bluff on your own).

A lot of players will c-bet the flop with a high frequency, but will play a lot more straightforwardly on the turn.

You can take advantage of that by simply betting every time they check the turn (or when they check the river if you attempt a double float).

4. Switch seats

Playing against overly aggressive players out of position means fighting an uphill battle.

If you have a very aggressive player on your left, sometimes the best course of action is to simply look for a more profitable table.

If you can’t switch seats, tighten up your open-raising ranges so you don’t get punished by their incessant 3-betting.

5. Bluff catch with hands with showdown value

Hands with showdown value are the ones that aren’t strong enough to value bet with, but can often win at showdown.
These hands make for great bluff catching candidates, especially when your opponent happens to have a lot of bluffs in their range.

6. Trap them with monster hands

Slowplaying is a very effective strategy against overly aggressive players that allows you to use their aggression against them.

When you get a monster hand, simply allow them to to all the betting in the hand, and sit back and watch them donate their stack to you.

---

This article was written by Fran Ferlan
Poker player, writer and coach
Specializing in live and online cash games

For coaching enquiries, contact Fran at fran.redline@gmail.com
Or apply directly for poker coaching with Fran, right here

Lastly, if you want to know the complete strategy I use to make $2000+ per month in small/mid stakes games, grab a copy of my free poker cheat sheet.

The Simple Trick to Beat People Who Bluff Too Much

5 Easy Ways to Tell if They Are Bluffing You

5 Easy Ways to Tell if They Are Bluffing You

This article was written by blackrain79.com contributor Fran Ferlan.

Knowing how to spot a bluff is an important skill to have at the poker table, especially when you start playing against more skilled opponents.

Fortunately, you don’t have to be Sherlock Holmes to successfully pick up on a bluff.

In this article, we’ll take a look at 5 easy ways to tell if your opponents are bluffing you.

By following these tips, you’ll be able to read souls in no time.


1. Know the Basic Poker Player Types


Some players bluff way more than others, and some players don’t bluff at all. 

In order to figure out if your opponent is bluffing you, you need to pay attention to their individual playing tendencies.

No two players play exactly the same. However, there are some commonalities between certain play styles. 

These play styles are distinct enough so you can categorize your opponents based on certain player types.

Some of these player types are way more likely to bluff than others. So if you can pinpoint your opponent’s player type, you’ll be able to spot bluffs way more easily.

Let’s briefly go through each player type and see what you can expect from their bluffing tendencies.

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Poker Player Type #1: Loose and Passive


Loose and passive poker players are more than likely to be recreational players. They play primarily for fun and usually have a very poor grasp of the fundamental winning poker strategy. 

They play way too many hands and usually play them passively (i.e. they check and call a lot instead of betting and raising).

Since they usually play passively, when they start firing off big bets, it usually means only one thing: they have a very strong hand (i.e. they are not bluffing).

These players may bluff occasionally if and when they get frustrated and start tilting (which they are prone to do).

If you believe that to be tha case, you can try calling them down wider to take advantage of their ill-timed bluffing attempts.

Even when they attempt to bluff you, their attempts usually won’t be well thought out, so it can be easy to spot them.

Then you simply call them down with a wide range (preferably in position) and let them donate their chips to you.


Poker Player Type #2: Loose and Aggressive Fish (aka the maniacs, aggrofish)


Unlike their passive counterparts, these players like to splash chips around and push their opponents out of pots with incessant, erratic aggression.

Therefore, these players are most likely to bluff you out of all the player types.

Since they usually play a crazy amount of hands, they will miss a lot of flops as a consequence.

5 Easy Ways to Tell if They Are Bluffing You

In no-limit hold’em, making a strong hand is more of an exception than the rule. 

So when these players start blasting off big bets, they’ll often do it with complete air.

Even though they can be frustrating at times, these players will be the most profitable to play against over the long run.

The appropriate strategy against them is fairly simple: call them down fairly liberally (preferably in position), and let them spew off their chips with their ill-conceived bluffs.

Check out my recent article on how to beat crazy poker players for more info on the topic.


Poker Player Type #3: Tight and Passive


This player type plays relatively better than the previous two, but they aren’t crushing the game by any means.

They usually play significantly less hands than other player types, and only bet and raise when they have a strong hand.

So how do you know when this player type is bluffing you?

It’s simple. They aren’t.

These players tend to play very straightforwardly. Strength means strength, and weakness means weakness. 

They rarely (if ever) go out of line with bluffing attempts, so when they start blasting off big bets, you can be certain they have something to show for it.

While you won’t make a ton of money against these players over the long run, you can still beat them with a pretty simple tactic: bluff them a lot yourself!

They won’t fight back for pots nearly as often as other player types, and when they do, it’s almost certainly because they have a strong hand.

Important note: you don’t want to go overboard so it becomes blatantly obvious what you’re doing. 

If they catch on to what you’re doing, they may adjust by starting to call you down wider, or even responding with their own aggression.


Poker Player Type #4: Tight and Aggressive


These players are more skilled than the previous player types, and they are likely familiar with the fundamental winning poker strategy

They will play stronger hands on average than the recreational players, and will typically play them aggressively, both preflop and post flop. 

Skilled tight and aggressive (TAG) players will balance their strong value hands with bluffs, so it will be significantly harder to figure out if they are bluffing you or not.

However, some TAG players tend to play too straightforwardly, and won’t be inclined to bluff a lot, or even at all in some cases.

Check out Nathan's video on how to beat good poker players.



Poker Player Type #5: Loose and Aggressive (regulars)


These players are similar to TAG players in so far that they are familiar with the fundamental winning strategy, but tend to play more hands on average than their TAG counterparts.

This means they are usually more likely to bluff than TAG players. However, unlike the loose and aggressive fish, their aggression is well-thought out, and they aren’t just randomly spewing chips.

This makes them arguably the toughest opponents to play against.

They will usually bluff more often than their TAG counterparts, but they will also likely balance their bluffs with strong value hands as well.

This can make hand reading against them more difficult than against other player types.

However, some LAG players may be too aggressive for their own good. So a successful counter to their strategy is to call them down wider and bluff catch more.

Check out my other article for a complete guide on how to beat loose and aggressive (LAG) poker players for more info on the topic.


2. Pay Attention to Their Timing Tells


If you’re playing poker online, you won’t have the luxury of observing physical tells from your opponents. 

However, you still can figure out their hand strength by paying attention to their betting patterns, as well as timing tells.

You can sometimes gauge your opponent’s hand strength based on how long it takes them to complete an action.

It’s worth noting right away that timing tells aren’t 100% reliable, but then again, no tells are.

As a general rule, however, if a player acts too quickly, it may be a sign that they are bluffing.

There are a couple of reasons for this.

First of all, if a player has a really strong hand, they will likely slow down and try to think about the best possible way to extract the most value from it. 

This means they’ll need to think about which hands can potentially give them action, which bet size they should use, which line to take (should they fastplay or slowplay their hand) and so on.

In other words, they’ll need to consider a lot of factors, and they’ll take their sweet time to think about the best course of action.

Also, by taking some time to act, they can feign weakness or doubt in order to get action from their opponents.

Conversely, when a player is bluffing, they may act quickly in order to telegraph strength and confidence and induce their opponents to fold.

For example: 

Fishy players love to bet big and act confidently when they have a hand like A♥️K♥️ on a flop of 8♠️8♦️5♣️

This often happens in live play as well: players will act strong when they are weak and vice versa.

This is particularly the case with weaker, less skilled players. The weaker the player, the more tells they are likely to display.

One caveat: it’s important not to read too much into tells, especially when you’re up against more skilled players.

Skilled players will be aware of certain tells and patterns, so they won’t give off as many tells as recreational players might. 

They can also intentionally give off reverse tells. For example, they may act tough or act quickly when they have the nuts, or take their time when they are bluffing.

This is why the previous point of recognizing the type of player you are up against is so crucial. 

When you are trying to figure out if a player is bluffing you or not, you should never anchor your conclusion to a single piece of information. You need to take the whole context into account to get an accurate read.

For more info on advanced hand reading techniques, check out The Microstakes Playbook.


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3. Pay Attention to Their Bet Sizing


One of the most reliable ways to gauge your opponent’s hand strength (or lack thereof) is to pay attention to their betting patterns.

A lot if players inadvertently give off tells with their betting amounts. If you figure out their betting patterns, it will be as if they are playing their cards face up.

For example, some players may make smaller bets when they are bluffing, and increase their bet sizing when they have a strong value hands.

Others may do the exact opposite. 

They may use smaller bet sizing to induce calling when they are strong, and fire off big bets in order to scare you out of the pot when they are weak.

Then there are more skilled players who will carefully balance their ranges so they don’t give off their hand strength with their bet sizing. 

Or they will mix up their bet sizing to keep you guessing.

5 Easy Ways to Tell if They Are Bluffing You

No two poker players are exactly alike, so you need to pay attention to their individual playing tendencies and betting patterns so you can draw some conclusions about your play style.

Still, some players may exhibit similar playing tendencies, so you can categorize them in a way to draw some general conclusions according to their player type. 

With that in mind, some player types are more likely to bluff than others.

Therefore, knowing the player type you’re up against can be very valuable if you want to know how likely it is for them to bluff you.

If you know the player type, you’ll have a better idea of deciphering what their bet sizing might represent.


Bluffing Example Hand #1


You are dealt JJ in the MP (middle position). 

You open-raise to 3x.

A loose and passive fish calls in the SB (small blind).

Pot: 7 BB

Flop: KT2

Villain donk-bets 7 BB.

You: ???

You should call.

This is one of the common in-game spots where a player may be bluffing you.

This is an awkward spot to find yourself in, and a lot of players err on the side of caution and simply fold in similar situations because they don’t have a top pair.

But by folding here you’re sacrificing a ton of equity.

Let’s break down the action.

Preflop you have a standard open-raise with pocket Jacks. You go heads-up to a flop with the initiative and the range advantage.

Then a player donk bets and you have no idea what to do.

A donk bet is an out of position bet made without being the previous street's aggressor. More often than not, it’s one of telltale signs of recreational poker players.

Check out my other article on donk betting and other bad poker strategies you should avoid.

In this spot, the villain may have a King from time to time, but more often than not, they will have a mediocre to a weak hand they don’t really know what to do with, so they fire off a pot sized bet to get you to fold right then and there.

They could have some sort of a Tx hand, a weak draw like an inside straight draw, a backdoor flush draw, some middle pocket pair like pocket NInes or pocket Eights and so on.

They could also have some sort of a Kx hand with a weak kicker, but this is only a small part of their overall range.

You also have the positional advantage, as well as a ton of equity, so calling is pretty much mandatory here.

Check out my other article on what to do against pot sized bets from fish.

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4. Check Their Aggression Factor


As a general rule, the more aggressive the player, the more bluffs they will have in their range. This intuitively makes sense.

Weak and timid players will rarely, if ever, get out of line with bluffing attempts. Wild, crazy players will bluff all the time.

That’s why the best way to know if someone is bluffing you or not is to first figure out their basic player type.

It’s also worth noting that the number of bluffs a player has in their range will vary depending on the situation.

As a general rule, particularly at the lower stakes, player are more likely to bluff early on in the hand (i.e. on the flop) than on the later streets (turn and river).

The reason for this is simple: it’s way more costly to bluff on the big money streets (i.e. turn and river) than preflop and on the flop.

So if a player suddenly blasts a big bet on the river, it’s more than likely that they have something to show for it.

The exception would of course be those wild, crazy players that are capable of blasting off huge bets with no rhyme or reason.

If you’re playing poker online, you can use a hand tracking software like PokerTracker 4 to see your opponents stats, namely how aggressive they are.

5 Easy Ways to Tell if They Are Bluffing You

The more aggressive they are, the more likely they are to bluff a lot.

One of the relevant stats to take into account is the Aggression Factor (AF). 

Aggression factor measures the ratio between a player’s aggressive actions (i.e. betting and raising) and passive actions (calling).

Aggression factor is not to be confused with the aggression frequency.

An aggression factor of 1 indicates an extremely passive player. 2 and 3 are the average. A player with the aggression factor of 4 is too aggressive and likely to bluff a lot. 5 is a complete out of control maniac.

Aggression factor needs a sample size of at least 100 hands to be reliable.

It’s also worth noting that aggression factor is only one of the relevant stats to determine the player’s overall bluffing tendencies. 

It should be taken into account with other stats to get an accurate picture.

Check out Nathan’s article on the most useful HUD stats for more info on this topic.

Also, check out the poker software the pros use to give themselves an edge.


5. Their Action Sequence Doesn’t Make Sense


One of the most reliable ways to figure out if a player is bluffing you is to look for discrepancies in their betting patterns and action sequences.

Some players may intentionally go for deceptive lines to conceal their hand strength, but more often than not, if you see a weird action sequence, it could very well be they are bluffing.

For example, if your opponent misses a c-bet on the flop, then fires a bet on the turn, even though the board texture didn’t change significantly, they may be bluffing you.

A continuation bet (or c-bet for short) is a bet made by the previous street’s aggressor.

Let’s look at an example hand to illustrate the point.


Bluffing Example Hand #2


You are dealt 88 on the BU (button).

A loose and aggressive player open-raises in the CO (cutoff) to 3x.

You call.

Pot: 7.5 BB

Flop: K95

Villain checks. You check.

Turn: 2

Villain bets 4 BB.

You: ???

You should call.

This is a good spot for bluff catching, since your hand has decent showdown value. 

Hands with showdown value are hands that aren’t strong enough to value bet with, but can often win the pot unimproved at showdown.

Let’s break down the action.

Preflop you have a standard call in position with a medium pocket pair.

The villain fails to make a continuation bet on the flop. You check back to control the pot size.

On the turn, the villain fires off a delayed c-bet. What could they be doing this with?

There’s no way to know for sure, but they potentially have a bunch of bluffs in their range you’re comfortably ahead of.

If they had a Kx hand, they would fire off a standard c-bet to extract value. If they had a set, same thing. 

If they had some sort of a drawing hand like 8♥️7♥️, they would fire off a c-bet as a semibluff (based on their player type).

A semibluff is a bluff where you don’t have the best hand, but could potentially have it on future streets if your draw completes. 

Semibluffing is usually preferable to stone-cold bluffing (where you don’t have a chance of getting the best hand) because you have some sort of hand equity to fall back on if your bluff gets called).

It’s possible that the villain picked up some sort of equity on the turn (like a flush draw, for example). Or they decided to try to bluff you because you checked back on the flop and they believe you are weak.

Either way, calling is the best play here.

Now, could the villain have been slowplaying a monster hand? 

It’s theoretically possible, but again, if they had a strong hand, they would more than likely have played it differently. 

Based on the action sequence, they are quite likely to be bluffing in this spot.

Check out Nathan's video for more hand reading tips.



5 Easy Ways to Tell if They Are Bluffing You - Summary


To sum up, here’s how you can easily pick up when your opponents are bluffing you.

And believe me, you don't need to spend tons of your time studying advanced poker strategy in order to quickly spot these.

1. Know your opponent’s player type.

Some players are more likely to bluff than others. If you know the player type you’re up against, you’ll have a much better idea if they are bluffing you or not.

2. Pay attention to timing tells.

Timing tells aren’t completely reliable, but may give off a player’s hand strength if you know what to look for. 

Quick actions may indicate that a player is bluffing, while slow, more deliberate actions may indicate a strong hand.

Of course, more skilled players may deliberately give off reverse tells, so keep that in mind as well.

3. Pay attention to their betting patterns.

Some players give off their hand strength with their bet sizing. 

For example, they may use the smaller size when they are bluffing and a bigger bet size when they have a strong hand. Others may do the exact opposite.

It’s important to pay attention to the player’s individual tendencies so you can figure out when they are bluffing you.

4. Look at their aggression factor.

As a general rule, the more aggressive the player, the more bluffs they will have in their range. 

If you’re using a hand tracking software like PokerTracker 4, check out a player’s aggression factor and other relevant stats to figure out their bluffing tendencies.

5. Their story doesn’t add up.

If the player’s actions aren’t congruent with the hand they are representing, they are more than likely to be bluffing. 

Play the hand back in reverse to see if their story adds up. If not, it may be a good time to pull off that huge hero call.

None of these signs are a 100% guarantee that a player is bluffing you. As with anything else in poker, context is key. 

You don’t need psychic abilities to figure out if your opponent is bluffing you. All you need to do is to pay attention and ask better questions.

Do this, and you’ll be able to read souls in no time.

Lastly, if you want to know the complete strategy I use to make $2000+ per month in small/mid stakes games, get a copy of my free poker cheat sheet.

5 Easy Ways to Tell if They Are Bluffing You

Stop Bluffing in These 3 Common Situations (Big Mistake!)

Stop Bluffing in These 3 Common Situations

This article was written by blackrain79.com contributor Fran Ferlan.

Bluffing is arguably the most exciting part of the game of poker, so much so that it has almost become synonymous with the game itself. 

To be a great poker player is to be able to pull off huge bluffs without breaking a sweat or raising a heartbeat. 

While there’s much more to being a great poker player, knowing when and how to bluff successfully certainly plays a large role. 

And since knowing when to bluff isn’t something that you can learn by merely reading an article, it might be more helpful to flip the script and consider the spots in which you’re better off not bluffing.

By figuring out when not to bluff, you’ll be better equipped to recognize the spots in which you should pull the trigger with your busted flush draw. 

This article will cover 3 common situations where bluffing is usually not a profitable option, help you recognize such situations, and save you a lot of money from ill-conceived bluffs in the future.


1. When Your Opponent Doesn't Fold


The point of bluffing is to get stronger hands than yours to fold. If your opponent isn’t likely to fold, your bluff isn’t likely to succeed, so you should avoid bluffing altogether. 

There are many factors that determine how likely your opponent is to fold, and determining it is more of an art than science. 

While you can calculate the pot odds and the odds of hitting your draws, for example (it’s basic math, really), you can’t accurately calculate the chances of your opponents doing certain actions, as you obviously don’t know their hole cards or their decision making process.

See my recent ultimate poker odds "cheat sheet" by the way for much more on how to quickly calculate your poker odds.  

So, the best you can do is give a rough estimate based on the information you’ve previously picked up on them. 

The first and the most obvious factor that determines how often a player folds is their overall player type, i.e. how tight or loose they are, or to put it more bluntly, how bad of a player they are. 

As a general rule, bad poker players (aka the fish) will obviously be far less willing to fold if they catch any piece of the board, or any sort of a draw.

This also goes for paired flops by the way which Nathan discussed in a recent video. You must stop trying to bluff on paired flops like this!

 
It’s also worth mentioning they don’t view their hand strength in relative terms, i.e. they don’t consider how weak or strong their hand is in relation to the board runout, their opponent’s tendencies, their perceived ranges, the previous action and so on. 

They only care about their absolute hand strength, meaning the stronger their hand ranking is, the less likely they are to fold, regardless of the previous considerations. 

They won’t fold their weak flushes and will never, ever fold a full house. 

Fish tend to overvalue certain hands and get irrationally attached to them, for example they won’t be willing to part with their overpairs on the flop (i.e. a pocket pair that is stronger than the possible pairs on the flop. 

By the way, if you just want to learn my simple no BS system for exactly what hands to play, when to bet, raise and bluff, I cover this in extensive detail in my brand new training program, Play Fearless Poker.

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What is an Overpair?


For instance, on a flop like Q♥️9♦️5♠️...

Pocket A♥️A♦️ and pocket K♠️K♣️ are both an overpair.

They will also overvalue other hands like bottom two pairs, a set and so on, even on the scariest of boards. So overall, bluffing recreational players is usually a bad idea. 

Not only will they get sticky with a lot of marginal holdings, they’ll also chase their ludicrous draws regardless of the price.

If you play online poker by the way, just use a good free poker HUD to quickly identify these types of players.  

So if you see some sort of straight or flush draw completing on the big money streets (i.e. turn or river), you should exercise caution, as it’s quite likely a decent chunk of their calling range consists of all kinds of drawing hands. 


Example Hand (Bad Bluffing Situation)


You are dealt AQ in the CO.
You open-raise to 3x. A loose and passive villain calls from the BU.

Pot: 7.5 BB
The flop: J7♠2

You c-bet 3 BB. Villain calls.
The turn: 8♠

You: ???

You should check. 

You have a standard open-raise preflop and get called (unsurprisingly) by a recreational player. You miss the flop, but you can try to take down the pot with a standard continuation bet. 

The board is fairly dry, your opponent’s calling range is quite weak and wide, and it’s safe to assume they missed the board more often than not. 

You have the range advantage, so you can c-bet even though the villain tends to overcall. You still have two overcards, so you can improve on later streets. 

You use the smaller c-bet size because you want a better risk to reward ratio.

The turn card is no help. It completes a potential straight draw if your opponent has T9, and it puts another flush draw on the board. 

Since the villain didn’t fold on the flop, it isn’t likely they’ll fold on the turn, either. Based on the villain’s player type and the board texture, bluffing is unlikely to be successful. 

The number of drawing hands the villain can have is through the roof, as well as random Jx hands, pocket pairs and so on. 

Hero checks and hopes to either improve to a top pair on the river, or see a cheap showdown with Ace-high.

It is important to be able to easily recognize board textures like this if you want to quickly improve your poker skills.


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Are you struggling to earn consistent profits in small stakes poker games? Would you like to make a nice part time income of at least $3000 per month in these games? Stop Bluffing in These 3 Common Situations 

If so, then I wrote this free poker cheat sheet for you. This is the best completely free poker strategy guide available online today. 

It shows you how to crush the small stakes games step by step. Learn exactly what hands to play and when to bet, raise and bluff all in! 

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2. When Your Opponent is Showing A lot of Strength


The aim of bluffing is to get your opponents to fold, and they’re more likely to do so if they have a weak hand. 

This seems like a fairly obvious point, but a lot of poker players make the mistake of not applying enough pressure in those marginal situations where their opponents would likely fold had they just pulled the trigger at the right time. 

Or worse yet, they try a big bluff when their opponent has already shown strength, and they think they can push them out of the pot by repping an even stronger hand. 

The latter is one of the biggest mistakes you can make when trying to bluff. 

The more money your opponent has already put into the pot, the less likely it is for your bluff to work, because they are already pot committed. 

It doesn’t make mathematical sense to fold in the middle of the hand if you’ve already committed most of your stack to the pot.

I discuss this in more detail by the way in my recent ultimate Texas Hold'em cheat sheet article.

Regardless of how well-thought out your bluff might be otherwise, it isn’t likely to succeed. 

What you want to do instead is bluff in situations where nobody seems particularly interested or committed to the pot, and when nobody has shown significant strength. 

What you want to be on the lookout for are the range-capping actions, i.e. checking and calling. 

A capped range is the one that theoretically contains less strong hands than an uncapped range, based on the actions taken throughout the hand, i.e. there’s an upper limit of your perceived hand strength. 

For example, if you call an open raise preflop, your range is capped, because if you had a really strong hand like pocket Aces, pocket Kings, Ace-King and so on, you would have probably re-raised (3-bet). 

Therefore, your range is capped and your opponent can conclude you don’t have these strong hands in your range.

So how does this relate to bluffing? 

It’s simple: you try to bluff capped ranges, and avoid attacking uncapped ranges, because they theoretically have more strong hands, and aren’t as likely to fold to your bluff.

This is a fundamental principle of any proven winning poker strategy.


3. When Your Bluff Doesn’t Tell a Believable Story


In order for your bluff to be successful, you need to convince your opponent you have a stronger hand than them. 

Another fairly obvious point, but a lot of poker players fail to take into account how their actions look from their opponent’s perspective. 

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If your bluff doesn’t tell a congruent story, your opponent might pick up on it, and decide to look you up. Remember, if you’re trying to bluff someone, you need to know that they are actually capable of folding. 

This mostly excludes recreational poker players and major calling stations, who don’t really pay attention to anything but their hole cards. 

This means that the players who are better targets for bluffing would be the ones that actually pay attention. 

And if they do, you can obviously expect a higher level of scrutiny from them. They’ll be more aware of your previous action, and might pick up if something doesn’t add up. 

So in order for your bluff to work, you need to make sure it tells a believable story, i.e. you can successfully represent strong hands.

This is a core fundamental tenet of any good advanced poker training system these days. 

For example, if you 3-bet preflop, c-bet the flop, bet the turn, then fire a third shell on the river (and do so with an appropriate bet sizing, of course), your opponent will need a strong hand indeed to call you down, and won’t be too comfortable with bluff catching with some sort of mediocre hand.

Even though you might hold complete air (if you missed your flush draw, for example), you can still credibly represent a lot of strong hands, because your actions scream strength. 

Triple-barrel bluffing isn’t something a lot of players are comfortable with doing, so if their opponent happens to fire that third shell on the river, they’ll usually believe you have something to show for it.

On the other hand, suppose that you 3-bet preflop, c-bet the flop, check the turn, and then bet the river when your opponent checks back to you. 

Your hand doesn’t scream incredible strength anymore, and your opponent might start to wonder why you missed a bet on the turn. 


Bad Bluffs (Summary)


The goal of bluffing is to get your opponent to fold. If your opponent is rarely or ever folding, just don’t try to bluff them, period.

This is something that a core aspect of a winning poker strategy. You cannot bluff the calling stations!

This is especially the case when playing against loose recreational players, aka the fish. They hate folding, and they love calling. Save your bluffs for players who actually pay attention.

Your bluffs are more likely to succeed against weak/mediocre hands. 

Look for players that are passive and don’t put up much of a fight to steal a bunch of small-to-medium sized pots that nobody seems to be particularly interested in. 

Don’t try to bluff in spots where your opponents seem to be heavily invested in the pot already. Look for range-capping actions (i.e. checking or calling) and attack capped ranges.

Finally, consider how the bluff looks from your opponent’s perspective. Can you credibly represent strong hands with your bluff as well? 

If not, your opponent might figure out something doesn’t add up and call you down.

These three key points can serve as a sort of a mental checklist to go through when deciding whether or not to bluff in a certain spot. 

Since there are so many factors to consider in a given spot, it’s useful to have some sort of shortcut like this to fall back on when making complex decisions. 

At the end of the day, though, you’ll never be able to make a 100% informed decision. 

Sometimes you’ll just have to go with your gut. 

If you still don’t know what to do, here’s a bonus tip to fall back on: When in doubt, don’t.

Lastly, if you want to know my complete strategy for making $3000+ per month in poker, grab a copy of my free poker cheat sheet.

Stop Bluffing in These 3 Common Situations